Cooking Veal / Beef the French Way (Recipes)

The culture of cooking veal and beef in French cuisine is deeply rooted in tradition, regional diversity, and a reverence for quality ingredients. The French approach to cooking these meats is not just about the act of cooking but reflects a broader philosophy about food, eating, and the connection to the land.

Terroir and Regional Diversity

The French culinary tradition is deeply influenced by terroir, a concept that refers to the unique characteristics of a region’s geography, climate, and soil that affect the quality of its food products. Different regions of France specialize in different styles of cooking veal and beef, reflecting local traditions and ingredients.

Burgundy is famous for Boeuf Bourguignon, a slow-cooked beef stew made with Burgundy wine. The wine plays a crucial role in enhancing the dish, showcasing the region’s famed vineyards.

Normandy emphasizes creamy sauces, like in Escalope de Veau à la Normande, where veal is paired with cream and apples.

Provence leans toward Mediterranean influences, using olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs like thyme and rosemary for cooking veal and beef dishes.

Respect for Ingredients

French cooking emphasizes the quality of ingredients, especially when it comes to meat. Veal and beef are seen as precious, and their preparation is approached with respect. French butchery traditions are highly refined, with butchers carefully selecting and aging the meats for optimal tenderness and flavor.

  • Veal is considered a delicacy in France, often associated with special occasions or Sundays. The meat is prized for its tenderness and mild flavor, especially when sourced from calves raised on farms that adhere to strict ethical and dietary standards.

  • Beef is a symbol of hearty, rustic French cuisine. Special care is taken in the selection of beef cuts, with certain breeds like Charolais or Limousin known for their superior quality. French chefs use the whole animal, and various cuts are celebrated for different preparations, from steak to stews.

The Importance of Sauces

Sauces are central to French cuisine, particularly when it comes to veal and beef dishes. French chefs are masters of sauce-making, using stocks, butter, cream, and reductions to complement the meat's natural flavors.

  • Béarnaise, bordelaise, and hollandaise are classic sauces served with beef dishes like Chateaubriand.

  • For veal, lighter sauces such as velouté or sauce au vin blanc (white wine sauce) are often used, providing richness without overpowering the delicate meat.

Veal

Veal in French Cuisine

Veal, or veau in French, is prized for its delicate, tender texture and subtle flavor. The meat comes from young cattle, usually under six months of age, making it leaner and more tender than beef. In French cuisine, veal is often cooked with gentle techniques that preserve its tenderness and showcase its mild taste. It is frequently paired with light sauces or reductions, allowing the natural flavor of the meat to shine.

Veal à la Mode

Rub a veal fillet generously with salt, then lard it. Prepare a seasoning mixture of chopped sweet herbs, shallots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Moisten this mixture with olive oil, then coat the veal thoroughly.

Place the veal in a tureen and let it marinate for several hours or overnight. When ready, remove it from the tureen, reapply the seasoning, and wrap the fillet in two sheets of well-buttered parchment paper. Roast or bake until fully cooked. Once done, unwrap the paper and scrape off the seasoning.

In a saucepan, combine the seasoning, gravy, juice from half a lemon, a butter-flour mixture, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, skimming off any impurities, then pour the sauce over the veal before serving.

Veal Cutlets

Prepare a seasoning by combining grated bread, minced ham, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and, if available, chopped mushrooms.

Mix in some egg yolk. Slice the veal into thin cutlets, rub them with lard, and coat both sides with the seasoning. Carefully wrap each cutlet in oiled or buttered parchment paper.

Bake slowly for about 45 minutes, then serve them in the paper.

  • Here’s a classic recipe for French Veal à la Mode, a delicious slow-cooked dish that highlights tender veal with rich flavors.

    Ingredients

    • 3 to 4 lbs veal shoulder or chuck, cut into large chunks

    • 2 tbsp olive oil

    • 2 tbsp butter

    • 2 onions, chopped

    • 2 carrots, sliced

    • 2 celery stalks, sliced

    • 4 cloves garlic, minced

    • 1 cup red wine (Burgundy or other dry red)

    • 4 cups beef or veal stock

    • 2 bay leaves

    • 4 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried thyme)

    • Salt and pepper to taste

    • 1 cup button mushrooms, halved

    • 2 tbsp flour (optional, for thickening)

    Instructions

    1. Brown the Veal:

      • In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-high heat.

      • Season the veal with salt and pepper, then brown the pieces in batches until golden on all sides. Remove the veal and set aside.

    2. Sauté the Vegetables:

      • In the same pot, add the onions, carrots, and celery. Sauté for about 5-7 minutes until they begin to soften.

      • Add the garlic and cook for an additional minute.

    3. Deglaze the Pot:

      • Pour in the red wine, scraping the bottom of the pot to lift any browned bits. Bring to a simmer and let it reduce for about 5 minutes.

    4. Add Stock and Herbs:

      • Return the veal to the pot and add the beef or veal stock, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover.

    5. Slow Cook:

      • Let it simmer gently for about 2.5 to 3 hours, or until the veal is very tender. You can check for tenderness by poking the meat with a fork.

    6. Add Mushrooms:

      • About 30 minutes before the dish is done, add the halved mushrooms. If you’d like to thicken the sauce, mix the flour with a bit of water to create a slurry, then stir it in.

    7. Finish and Serve:

      • Once the veal is tender, taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Remove the bay leaves and thyme sprigs before serving.

    Serving Suggestions

    Serve the Veal à la Mode with creamy mashed potatoes, polenta, or crusty bread to soak up the delicious sauce.

  • French Veal Cutlets Recipe

    Ingredients

    • 4 veal cutlets (about 4-6 oz each)

    • Salt and pepper, to taste

    • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

    • 2 large eggs

    • 1 cup breadcrumbs (preferably fresh)

    • 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

    • 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped (optional)

    • 3 tbsp unsalted butter

    • 2 tbsp olive oil

    • Lemon wedges, for serving

    Instructions

    1. Prepare the Cutlets:

      • If the cutlets are thick, gently pound them to about 1/4 inch thickness between two pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper for even cooking. Season both sides with salt and pepper.

    2. Set Up a Breading Station:

      • In three shallow dishes, set up your breading station:

        • Flour in the first dish.

        • Beaten eggs in the second dish.

        • A mixture of breadcrumbs, Parmesan (if using), and parsley in the third dish.

    3. Bread the Cutlets:

      • Dredge each cutlet in flour, shaking off the excess.

      • Dip it into the beaten eggs, allowing the excess to drip off.

      • Finally, coat it in the breadcrumb mixture, pressing gently to adhere. Repeat with all cutlets.

    4. Cook the Cutlets:

      • In a large skillet, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat until hot and bubbly.

      • Add the cutlets to the skillet in batches, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Cook for about 3-4 minutes per side, or until golden brown and cooked through.

      • Remove the cooked cutlets and keep them warm on a plate lined with paper towels.

    5. Serve:

      • Serve the veal cutlets hot, garnished with lemon wedges and additional parsley if desired. Pair them with a side salad, sautéed vegetables, or mashed potatoes.

Blanquette or Fricassee of Veal

Blanquette and fricassée are both classic French dishes that highlight the rich tradition of French cuisine.

Fricassée

Fricassée, on the other hand, is a method of cooking that involves browning meat (commonly chicken) before simmering it in a white sauce, often including vegetables and herbs. The term comes from the Old French "fricassee," which indicates a dish made from cut-up meat. Like blanquette, it typically has a creamy texture but may also include a more robust flavor profile with the addition of white wine and spices. This dish has medieval roots and evolved over time, becoming a staple in French kitchens.

Blanquette

Blanquette de veau is a creamy veal stew made with white meat, typically cooked slowly with vegetables like carrots, onions, and mushrooms. The dish is characterized by its pale color (hence the name "blanquette," which means "white" in French) and is finished with a velouté sauce enriched with cream and egg yolks. Its origins trace back to the 17th century, and it was popularized in the 19th century. Traditionally, it embodies the French culinary technique of braising and emphasizes the use of fresh ingredients.

Both dishes reflect the French culinary tradition of using simple, high-quality ingredients to create comforting and sophisticated meals.

Take the leftover cold roast fillet or loin of veal and cut it into thin slices. Place the pieces in a saucepan with a knob of butter rolled in flour, salt, pepper, minced small onions, chopped sweet herbs, and one or two bay or peach leaves.

Combine everything and add a splash of warm water. Allow it to simmer gently for five minutes or so. Once off the heat, stir in some lemon juice and a lightly beaten egg yolk.

  • French Blanquette or Fricassée of Veal is a classic, comforting dish from French cuisine. It involves gently simmered veal in a velvety white sauce made with cream, egg yolk, and often flavored with a variety of aromatics and vegetables. Here’s a traditional recipe for Blanquette de Veau (Blanquette of Veal), a variation of veal fricassee.

    Blanquette de Veau Recipe (French Veal Stew)

    Ingredients:

    • For the Stew:

      • 2 lb (900g) veal shoulder or breast, cut into large chunks

      • 1 onion, peeled and halved

      • 2 carrots, peeled and cut into thick rounds

      • 1 leek (white part), cleaned and cut into large pieces

      • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

      • 1 celery stalk, cut into chunks

      • 1 bouquet garni (bay leaf, thyme, parsley)

      • 10 oz (300g) button mushrooms, sliced

      • 1 tbsp lemon juice

      • 2 tbsp unsalted butter

      • Salt and pepper to taste

      • Water

    • For the Velouté Sauce:

      • 3 tbsp unsalted butter

      • 3 tbsp all-purpose flour

      • 2 cups (500ml) cooking broth (from the veal)

      • ½ cup (125ml) heavy cream

      • 2 egg yolks

      • 1 tbsp lemon juice

    Instructions:

    1. Blanch the veal:

      • Place the veal pieces in a large pot and cover them with cold water.

      • Bring to a simmer and blanch for about 2 minutes. Drain and rinse the meat under cold water to remove impurities.

    2. Simmer the veal:

      • Return the veal to a clean pot. Add the onion, carrots, leek, celery, garlic, and bouquet garni.

      • Pour enough water to cover the veal and vegetables by about 2 inches.

      • Bring to a gentle simmer, skimming any foam that rises to the surface. Cover and cook on low heat for 1.5 to 2 hours, or until the veal is tender.

      • Once cooked, remove the veal and set aside, reserving the cooking liquid (this will be the base for the velouté sauce).

    3. Prepare the mushrooms:

      • In a skillet, melt 2 tbsp of butter over medium heat. Add the sliced mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until they are golden and soft. Add the lemon juice and set aside.

    4. Make the velouté sauce:

      • In a medium saucepan, melt 3 tbsp of butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for about 2 minutes without letting it brown (this is called a roux).

      • Gradually whisk in 2 cups of the reserved veal cooking broth, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Let it simmer until thickened, about 5-7 minutes.

      • In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cream, and 1 tbsp lemon juice.

      • Remove the sauce from heat and slowly whisk in the cream mixture, making sure the sauce doesn’t curdle. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

    5. Combine everything:

      • Add the cooked veal and sautéed mushrooms to the sauce. Stir gently to combine.

      • Warm the stew over low heat until everything is heated through, but don’t let it boil, as this may curdle the sauce.

    6. Serve:

      • Serve the Blanquette de Veau over rice or with boiled potatoes. Garnish with fresh parsley if desired.

    Tips:

    • Blanquette is traditionally a white stew, so avoid browning the veal or vegetables.

    • The addition of mushrooms is common, but you can also include pearl onions or baby carrots for extra flavor.

Godiveau

Godiveau is a type of French sausage or meat dumpling made from finely ground veal and sometimes other meats, such as pork or chicken. This dish has deep historical roots in French culinary traditions, especially during the 18th and 19th centuries. Godiveau was a common feature in festive meals, served in soups or stews, and enjoyed for its delicate flavor and soft texture.

In older times, godiveau was often linked to Catholic religious festivities, particularly around Easter, as it was considered a fine, celebratory dish. The use of veal, a high-quality meat, and the labor-intensive preparation made it a dish for special occasions. Today, while it may not be as widely known or prepared as some other French dishes, it remains a traditional favorite in certain regions of France.

Take a large piece of veal fillet, ensuring it is free of fat and skin. Mince the meat finely, then pound it in a mortar until it forms a smooth paste. Pass it through a colander or sieve.

Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, then also rub the bread through a sieve. The quantity of bread should equal that of the veal. Use the same amount of butter, and mix it in the mortar with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley to taste.

Combine all the ingredients. Beat two or three eggs until light, then gradually add them to the mixture. Shape the mixture into round balls or long rolls and fry them in butter. Alternatively, you can place it in a pie dish (without a lid) and bake it.

This mixture, known as Godiveau, makes an excellent stuffing for poultry or game.

  • Traditional French Godiveau Recipe (Veal Sausage Dumplings)

    Ingredients:

    • For the Godiveau:

      • 1 lb (450g) veal (preferably shoulder or breast)

      • 4 oz (120g) pork fat (or pork belly)

      • 2 large egg whites

      • 1 small garlic clove, minced

      • 1 small onion, finely chopped

      • 1 tsp salt

      • ¼ tsp ground white pepper

      • ¼ tsp ground nutmeg

      • ¼ tsp ground cloves

      • ½ cup heavy cream (or milk)

      • 1 tbsp unsalted butter

    • For Poaching:

      • Water or veal broth for poaching

      • 1 bouquet garni (bay leaf, thyme, and parsley)

    Instructions:

    1. Prepare the meats:

      • Begin by finely mincing or grinding the veal and pork fat together. You can use a meat grinder, or if you don't have one, chop the meat and fat as finely as possible using a sharp knife.

      • In a large mixing bowl, combine the minced meats with the garlic, onion, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and ground cloves. Stir everything well to incorporate the seasonings evenly.

    2. Make the godiveau mixture:

      • Gradually mix in the egg whites and cream (or milk) into the meat mixture. The egg whites will help bind the mixture, while the cream adds richness.

      • Beat the mixture thoroughly with a wooden spoon or spatula until the texture becomes smooth and slightly elastic. This step is essential for creating the traditional texture of godiveau.

    3. Shape the godiveau:

      • Wet your hands slightly to prevent sticking and form the meat mixture into small balls, about 1.5 inches in diameter. You can also shape them into short sausage-like logs if preferred.

    4. Poach the godiveau:

      • In a large saucepan, bring water or veal broth to a gentle simmer (not boiling). Add the bouquet garni to flavor the broth.

      • Carefully place the godiveau dumplings into the simmering liquid. Let them poach for about 20-25 minutes, making sure the liquid stays at a gentle simmer. Avoid boiling, as it may cause the dumplings to become tough.

      • Once cooked, remove the godiveau with a slotted spoon and let them drain.

    5. Serve:

      • Godiveau can be served in a variety of ways:

        • With a sauce: Serve them with a white velouté sauce or a mustard cream sauce.

        • In soups: Traditionally, godiveau was also served in broths or consommé, adding a delicate, meaty richness to the soup.

        • As a side: Godiveau is also served alongside vegetables or grains like rice.

    Modern Variations:

    In modern kitchens, godiveau might be fried or baked after poaching to give them a slightly crispy exterior. Additionally, some recipes call for using chicken or a mix of veal and pork for a richer flavor profile.

    The mild, spiced flavors and tender texture of godiveau make it a deliciously traditional treat, reminiscent of old-world French cuisine.

Grillades

Classic

Slice from a fillet of veal, fresh beef, leg of mutton, or leg of pork, ensuring they are no thicker than half an inch.

Place the slices in a stewpan with a suitable amount of oil, salt, pepper, and finely chopped parsley and onion. Simmer in a small amount of water until they are halfway cooked. Meanwhile, prepare sheets of white paper greased with oil or butter.

Remove the meat slices, which should be coated with the seasoning, and sprinkle grated breadcrumbs over them. Wrap each slice in the paper and broil over a low fire. Serve them directly in the paper.

Grillades is a traditional French dish, often associated with New Orleans' Creole cuisine. It's typically made using slow-cooked medallions of beef, veal, or pork, served with a rich tomato-based gravy and commonly paired with grits. Here’s a recipe for French Grillades, which blends French techniques with Southern flavors.

  • Ingredients (Serves 4)

    • 500g (about 1 lb) veal, pork, or beef (preferably shoulder or round steak), cut into thin slices or medallions

    • 2 tbsp flour (for dredging)

    • 3 tbsp vegetable oil (or bacon fat for added flavor)

    • 1 onion, finely chopped

    • 1 green bell pepper, finely chopped

    • 2 cloves garlic, minced

    • 2 celery stalks, finely chopped

    • 1 can (400g/14 oz) diced tomatoes

    • 1 cup beef or veal stock

    • 1/2 cup dry white wine (optional)

    • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

    • 1 tsp smoked paprika

    • 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper (optional, for extra heat)

    • 1 bay leaf

    • 1 tsp fresh thyme (or 1/2 tsp dried thyme)

    • Salt and black pepper, to taste

    • Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

    Instructions

    1. Prepare the Meat

    • Season the slices of meat with salt and pepper.

    • Dredge the meat in flour, shaking off the excess.

    2. Brown the Meat

    • In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil (or bacon fat) over medium-high heat.

    • Sear the meat slices in batches until browned on both sides, about 2-3 minutes per side. Remove the meat and set aside.

    3. Sauté the Vegetables

    • In the same skillet, lower the heat to medium and add the chopped onions, bell pepper, celery, and garlic. Sauté for about 5-7 minutes until softened and lightly browned.

    4. Add the Liquids and Seasoning

    • Stir in the smoked paprika, thyme, cayenne pepper (if using), and bay leaf.

    • Add the diced tomatoes, stock, and white wine. Stir in Worcestershire sauce.

    • Bring the mixture to a simmer.

    5. Cook the Meat

    • Return the browned meat to the skillet, nestling it into the sauce.

    • Cover the skillet and reduce the heat to low. Let the grillades simmer for about 1-1.5 hours, or until the meat is tender and easily pulls apart with a fork.

    • Stir occasionally to prevent sticking, adding more stock or water if the sauce becomes too thick.

    6. Finish and Serve

    • Once the meat is tender, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.

    • Remove the bay leaf.

    7. Garnish and Serve

    • Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

    • Traditionally, grillades are served over creamy grits, but they can also be paired with mashed potatoes or rice.

    Serving Suggestion:

    • Serve with creamy Southern-style grits (or polenta). You can enrich the grits with cheese and butter to make them extra creamy.

    • A side of crusty French bread would complement the rich sauce beautifully.

Calves’ Liver

The preparation of veal liver in French cuisine has deep historical roots, reflecting the nation's rich culinary traditions. French chefs have long prized liver for its delicate flavor and versatility. Veal liver, in particular, became a staple due to its tender texture and milder taste compared to other types of liver, like beef or pork.

Liver consumption in France goes back to at least the Middle Ages, when offal, including liver, was highly valued for being nutrient-dense and economical. In the 17th and 18th centuries, French cuisine began to be codified, and liver dishes became a part of the menus of aristocratic households. During this time, French chefs refined techniques for cooking organ meats, including sautéing, braising, and poaching.

Classic Preparation Methods

Veal liver was traditionally prepared simply to highlight its flavor. One of the most famous preparations is "Foie de Veau à la Lyonnaise" (Lyon-style veal liver). This dish consists of liver sautéed in butter and is typically served with caramelized onions, parsley, and a sauce made from pan drippings and vinegar or wine. The dish hails from Lyon, a city known for its gastronomic traditions, particularly its "Bouchon" restaurants, which emphasize rustic, hearty cooking.

Modern French Approaches

In contemporary French cuisine, veal liver is often treated with the same respect as a fine steak. Chefs emphasize quick searing or sautéing to preserve its tender texture. Ingredients like shallots, capers, herbs, and white wine are frequently used to enhance its flavor. Modern French bistros often feature veal liver as a dish that evokes both comfort and sophistication.

Veal Liver in 19th-Century Haute Cuisine

By the 19th century, veal liver had become more common in haute cuisine, as chefs like Marie-Antoine Carême and later Georges Auguste Escoffier elevated French culinary techniques. Veal liver was often paired with rich sauces, such as sauce madère (a Madeira wine-based sauce) or sauce bordelaise (a red wine and shallot-based sauce). Escoffier, in particular, helped popularize liver in fine dining settings, emphasizing the importance of careful seasoning and cooking to avoid overcooking the delicate meat.

Calves’ Liver Baked

Coat the liver with bacon and let it marinate for three to four hours in a covered dish, seasoned with finely chopped parsley, shallots, bay leaves, thyme, a pinch of pepper, salt, and two tablespoons of olive oil.

Turn the liver occasionally. Once marinated, wrap it in thin slices of bacon or cold ham and bake or roast it for about an hour and a quarter. To the gravy, stir in an egg yolk, minced onions, and chopped fresh herbs.

Calves’ Liver Fried

Slice the liver thinly and place it in a frying pan with a pat of butter dusted with flour, along with some minced onions, a splash of white wine, salt, pepper, and a pinch of mace. Cook for about ten minutes until browned.

The French approach to veal liver—balancing simplicity with flavor—has influenced how this dish is prepared in kitchens worldwide. Its enduring popularity in France speaks to the country’s broader reverence for ingredients that honor tradition while allowing room for culinary creativity.

  • Here’s a classic recipe for Foie de Veau à la Lyonnaise (Lyon-style veal liver), a traditional French dish that pairs the tender veal liver with caramelized onions and a rich, tangy sauce.

    Foie de Veau à la Lyonnaise Recipe

    Ingredients (Serves 4)

    • 500g (about 1 lb) veal liver, thinly sliced (about 1 cm thick)

    • 3 large onions, thinly sliced

    • 3 tbsp butter (unsalted)

    • 2 tbsp vegetable oil (for frying)

    • 2 tbsp white wine vinegar (or red wine vinegar)

    • 100 ml (about 1/2 cup) beef or veal stock

    • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

    • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    • Flour, for dusting the liver (optional)

    Instructions

    1. Caramelize the Onions

    • In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 20-30 minutes, until the onions are soft and golden brown.

    • Season the onions with salt and pepper. Remove them from the pan and set aside, keeping them warm.

    2. Cook the Veal Liver

    • While the onions are cooking, season the liver slices with salt and pepper. You can lightly dust them with flour for a crispier exterior (optional).

    • In the same pan (without cleaning it), add the vegetable oil and heat over medium-high heat.

    • Add the liver slices and cook for about 1-2 minutes per side, depending on thickness. The liver should be golden brown on the outside but slightly pink on the inside (medium-rare). Overcooking will make the liver tough.

    • Remove the liver from the pan and set aside on a warm plate.

    3. Make the Sauce

    • Deglaze the pan by adding the vinegar and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom.

    • Pour in the beef or veal stock and reduce the sauce slightly over medium heat until it thickens slightly (about 3-4 minutes).

    • Stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter to add richness and shine to the sauce.

    4. Assemble the Dish

    • Return the caramelized onions to the pan and toss them in the sauce to warm through.

    • Plate the liver slices and spoon the onions and sauce over the top.

    • Garnish with chopped parsley.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Serve with classic French accompaniments such as mashed potatoes, sautéed potatoes, or a simple green salad.

    • A glass of red wine, like a Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône, pairs wonderfully with the richness of the liver.

Veal Kidneys

French Classic

Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first soaked them in cold water, rub them with a little salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with flour and a little parsley and onions minced finely. Fry them in butter, adding a glass of champagne or other white wine.

Mutton kidneys may be done in the same manner.

Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them in half, season them with salt and pepper, lard them, and broil them

Veal Sweetbreads

Take three sweetbreads and soak them in milk for three to four hours. Once softened, pat them dry and lard them. Prepare a seasoning by finely chopping some sweet herbs, mushrooms, and a quarter pound of cold ham or bacon. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste, along with a tablespoon of sweet oil. Mix everything thoroughly.

In a stewpan, add the sweetbreads, along with the seasoning, a small piece of butter coated in flour, a little water or broth, and an equal amount of wine. Let it stew gently for about ten minutes.

After stewing, remove the sweetbreads and place them in a deep dish. Pour the seasoning mixture over them and allow it to cool. Meanwhile, prepare some white paper cases, oil them, and line the insides with grated bread. Place a sweetbread into each paper case, adding some seasoning to both the top and bottom. Seal the cases and bake them in an oven until the sweetbreads turn golden.

For serving, heat the gravy until it simmers, then remove from the fire and gently stir in a lightly beaten egg yolk. Let it sit covered for a few minutes, then serve the gravy in a sauce boat alongside the baked sweetbreads in their paper cases.

Beef

Beef in French Cuisine

Beef, or boeuf in French, is an essential part of French culinary history, with many classic dishes built around it. French cuisine values high-quality cuts of beef, often sourced from specific breeds like the Charolais (known for its tenderness and flavor) or Limousin. The cooking of beef in French cuisine ranges from elegant steak preparations to hearty stews that celebrate the slow-cooked richness of tougher cuts.

Sirloin of Beef

French Classic

Generously rub salt all over the beef, and insert strips of fatty bacon into the lean sections. Cover the meat with oiled or buttered paper. Roast it for three to four hours, depending on its size.

Serve with the gravy and a side of onion sauce.

Stewed Beef

French Classic

Take some slices of cold, slightly undercooked roast beef and place them in a stewpan with a bit of gravy or broth. If neither is available, warm water will suffice.

Add a knob of butter coated in flour, along with chopped capers or pickled cucumbers, a splash of lemon juice or vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Allow the beef to simmer gently without boiling. Meanwhile, prepare slices of bread to match the size of the beef slices and fry them in butter.

To serve, spread tomato sauce on the bottom of a dish, then arrange the beef slices and fried bread in alternating layers. Pour the gravy over the top and serve immediately. You can use this method with other types of meat as well.

French beef stew, particularly the famous "Boeuf Bourguignon," is a dish with deep roots in French culinary history. This slow-cooked stew, traditionally made with beef, red wine, and vegetables, reflects the country's agricultural traditions and its rich culinary heritage.

History of French Beef Stew (Boeuf Bourguignon)

Boeuf Bourguignon originates from the Burgundy region of France, known for its wines and cattle farming. The dish likely started as peasant food, where tougher cuts of beef were slow-cooked in local red wine to tenderize the meat and enhance its flavor. Over time, the dish became more refined, moving from rustic kitchens to the tables of French nobility and restaurants.

By the 19th century, the stew had become popular in French homes and was elevated in the kitchens of chefs like Auguste Escoffier, who codified many French recipes. Boeuf Bourguignon is one of the most well-known examples of slow-braising in French cuisine, a technique that softens the meat and develops rich flavors over time. Today, it remains a classic in French cuisine, celebrated for its depth of flavor and hearty qualities.

  • This recipe stays true to traditional techniques, combining beef with red wine, aromatic vegetables, and mushrooms.

    Ingredients (Serves 4-6)

    • 1 kg (about 2.2 lbs) beef chuck or stewing beef, cut into large chunks

    • 150g (about 5 oz) bacon, diced (optional but adds richness)

    • 2 carrots, peeled and sliced

    • 1 onion, finely chopped

    • 2 cloves garlic, minced

    • 2 tbsp all-purpose flour

    • 750 ml (1 bottle) red Burgundy wine (or another dry red wine)

    • 2 cups beef stock (or water)

    • 2 tbsp tomato paste

    • 1 bay leaf

    • 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme

    • 300g (about 10 oz) button mushrooms, quartered

    • 12-15 pearl onions, peeled

    • 2 tbsp butter

    • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    • Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

    Instructions

    1. Prepare the Beef and Bacon

    • Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F).

    • In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, cook the diced bacon over medium heat until crispy. Remove the bacon and set it aside, leaving the fat in the pan.

    • Brown the beef chunks in the bacon fat over medium-high heat. Work in batches if necessary, making sure the meat is well browned on all sides. Remove the beef and set it aside.

    2. Cook the Vegetables

    • In the same pot, add the chopped onion and carrots. Sauté them over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 5-7 minutes.

    • Add the garlic and cook for another minute.

    3. Deglaze and Build the Stew

    • Stir in the flour and cook for 2-3 minutes to remove the raw taste and thicken the sauce.

    • Pour in the red wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot (this is where the flavor is!). Stir in the tomato paste.

    • Add the beef stock, bay leaf, thyme, and the cooked beef and bacon back into the pot. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer.

    • Cover the pot and transfer it to the preheated oven. Let it braise for 2.5 to 3 hours, until the beef is fork-tender.

    4. Prepare the Mushrooms and Pearl Onions

    • About 30 minutes before the stew is done, heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat.

    • Sauté the mushrooms and pearl onions until they are golden and tender, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

    5. Finish the Stew

    • When the beef is tender, remove the pot from the oven.

    • Add the sautéed mushrooms and onions to the stew and stir them in gently.

    • Simmer the stew on the stovetop for another 10-15 minutes to blend the flavors and slightly thicken the sauce if needed. If the sauce is too thick, add a bit of beef stock or water to adjust the consistency.

    6. Serve

    • Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

    • Serve the Boeuf Bourguignon garnished with chopped parsley.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Traditionally, Boeuf Bourguignon is served with simple sides like mashed potatoes, buttered noodles, or crusty French bread. It also pairs well with a glass of red Burgundy wine.

    This dish is the perfect example of French peasant food elevated to gourmet status, thanks to its long cooking time, which creates tender meat and a deeply flavorful sauce.

Beef Steaks

Classic

Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them neatly, and take off the bone and the skin. To make them tender, beat them on both sides with a wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling pin. Rub them with salt and pepper. Warm a sufficient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread it over the steaks.

Then sprinkle them with onions minced very finely. Cover them up in a dish, and let them lie an hour or more in the seasoning. Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some cold-boiled potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay them around the steaks.

 Beef à la Mode

Classic

Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to make it tender. Rub it all over with salt and pepper. Lard it on both sides with slips of bacon. Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a calves-foot, a few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, one or two laurel leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg.

Pour in a half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white wine, and a spoonful of brandy. Let it stew slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out; strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve it up.

A fillet of veal may be done in the same manner.

Boeuf à la Mode is a traditional French pot roast that dates back to the 18th century, often referred to as the French version of a beef pot roast. It’s a slow-cooked, flavorful dish made with beef, red wine, and aromatic vegetables. The term "à la mode" refers to a dish that’s dressed up or prepared in a particular style, often associated with marinating and slow braising.

  • Ingredients (Serves 6)

    • 1.5 to 2 kg (about 3-4 lbs) beef chuck roast or brisket

    • 150g (5 oz) bacon, diced (optional)

    • 2 tbsp all-purpose flour

    • 2 large carrots, sliced

    • 2 onions, sliced

    • 2 cloves garlic, minced

    • 2 stalks celery, sliced

    • 1 leek (white and light green parts), chopped

    • 1 bouquet garni (a bundle of thyme, bay leaf, and parsley)

    • 750 ml (1 bottle) dry red wine (Burgundy or Bordeaux are good options)

    • 2 cups beef stock

    • 2 tbsp olive oil or butter

    • 1 tbsp tomato paste

    • 2 tbsp Cognac (optional)

    • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    • 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped for garnish

    Instructions

    1. Prepare and Brown the Beef

    • Season the beef roast generously with salt and pepper.

    • In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil or butter over medium-high heat.

    • Brown the beef on all sides until a golden crust forms, about 5-7 minutes per side. Remove the beef and set aside.

    2. Cook the Bacon (Optional)

    • If using bacon, cook it in the same pot over medium heat until crispy. Remove the bacon and set aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pot.

    3. Sauté the Vegetables

    • Add the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, and leek to the pot and cook over medium heat until softened, about 8-10 minutes.

    • Stir in the flour and cook for another 2-3 minutes to eliminate the raw flour taste.

    4. Deglaze and Add the Liquids

    • Deglaze the pot with the Cognac (if using) and let it cook off for 1-2 minutes.

    • Add the tomato paste and stir to combine.

    • Pour in the red wine and beef stock, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Bring the mixture to a simmer.

    5. Braise the Beef

    • Return the beef to the pot along with the bouquet garni.

    • Cover and simmer on low heat, or place in a preheated oven at 160°C (320°F) for about 3 hours, or until the meat is very tender. You can also use a slow cooker on low for 6-8 hours.

    6. Prepare the Vegetables (Optional)

    • You can add additional vegetables (like pearl onions, mushrooms, or potatoes) to the stew in the last hour of cooking if desired.

    7. Finish the Dish

    • Once the beef is tender, remove it from the pot and set it aside. Discard the bouquet garni.

    • If the sauce is too thin, simmer it uncovered for 10-15 minutes to reduce and thicken. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

    • Slice the beef and return it to the pot, or serve the sauce and vegetables over the meat.

    8. Serve

    • Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.

    • Serve Boeuf à la Mode with mashed potatoes, buttered noodles, or crusty bread.

    Serving Suggestions

    • This dish pairs beautifully with a glass of red wine, like Burgundy or Bordeaux, and a simple green salad on the side.

    Comforting and elegant Boeuf à la Mode, a true testament to the beauty of slow-cooked French cuisine!

  • Ingredients (Serves 6-8)

    • 1.5 kg (about 3 lbs) beef chuck roast or beef brisket

    • 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks

    • 2 onions, chopped

    • 2 celery stalks, chopped

    • 4 cloves garlic, minced

    • 1 bouquet garni (a bundle of thyme, bay leaves, and parsley tied together)

    • 750 ml (1 bottle) dry red wine (Burgundy or Bordeaux are ideal)

    • 2 cups beef stock or water

    • 2 tbsp brandy or cognac (optional)

    • 3 tbsp olive oil or butter

    • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    • 2 tbsp all-purpose flour

    • 12-15 pearl onions, peeled

    • 300g (about 10 oz) button mushrooms, quartered

    • 2 tbsp butter (for sautéing mushrooms and onions)

    • Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

    Instructions

    1. Marinate the Beef

    • Ideally, marinate the beef a day ahead to infuse deep flavor. Place the beef in a large bowl or dish with the chopped carrots, onions, celery, garlic, and bouquet garni.

    • Pour the red wine over the beef and vegetables, cover, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. This helps tenderize the meat and enhances flavor.

    2. Prepare for Cooking

    • Preheat your oven to 150°C (300°F).

    • Remove the beef from the marinade and pat it dry with paper towels. Strain the vegetables from the marinade, reserving both the wine and the vegetables separately.

    • Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil or butter in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the beef on all sides until deeply caramelized, about 5-7 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.

    3. Sauté the Vegetables

    • In the same pot, add the reserved vegetables and sauté them until softened and lightly browned, about 5-7 minutes.

    • Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 2-3 minutes to form a light roux. This helps thicken the sauce.

    4. Deglaze and Build the Stew

    • Deglaze the pot by adding the reserved red wine marinade and beef stock. Stir to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom.

    • Add the brandy or cognac (if using), and bring the mixture to a simmer.

    • Return the browned beef to the pot, nestling it into the wine and vegetable mixture. Add the bouquet garni.

    5. Slow Cook the Beef

    • Cover the pot with a lid and place it in the preheated oven. Let the beef cook gently for 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat is tender and easily pulls apart with a fork.

    • Check occasionally, ensuring there’s enough liquid. Add more beef stock if needed.

    6. Prepare the Mushrooms and Pearl Onions

    • While the beef is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat.

    • Sauté the mushrooms and pearl onions until golden brown and tender, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

    7. Finish the Stew

    • Once the beef is tender, remove the pot from the oven.

    • Transfer the beef to a cutting board and let it rest for a few minutes before slicing.

    • Strain the sauce, discarding the bouquet garni and any overcooked vegetables. If the sauce is too thin, you can reduce it over medium heat on the stovetop.

    • Stir the sautéed mushrooms and pearl onions into the sauce.

    8. Serve

    • Slice the beef and arrange it on a platter. Spoon the sauce and vegetables over the top.

    • Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Boeuf à la Mode is often served with buttered noodles, mashed potatoes, or creamy polenta. Crusty French bread is also great for soaking up the rich sauce.

    • A glass of red wine (such as the same one used in the dish) pairs wonderfully.

    This elegant and hearty dish showcases the beauty of French slow cooking, creating layers of flavor from simple ingredients over time.

Wine Pairing and Complements

Wine is an inseparable part of French meals, especially when it comes to beef and veal. Each dish is carefully paired with a wine that enhances the flavors of the meat.

  • Boeuf Bourguignon is traditionally paired with a red Burgundy, while veal dishes like Blanquette de Veau are often paired with a white Burgundy or a crisp Chardonnay.

  • The French also complement their meat dishes with seasonal vegetables, mushrooms, and light side dishes like potato gratins or green beans.

In sum, French veal and beef cooking is an art form that merges tradition, regionality, technique, and respect for ingredients. It reflects the broader French cultural ethos of savoring life, with food and meals playing a central role in connecting people to their history, land, and one another.

Larding

Larding with strips of fat bacon enhances both the taste and appearance of meat, poultry, and game, and is a staple in French cooking. To do this, you'll need a larding pin, a steel tool about a foot long with a sharp end and a cleft end divided into four sections, resembling tweezers. These can be found at hardware stores.

For larding, use fat bacon, cutting it into strips no longer than two inches, half an inch wide, and half an inch thick. For poultry, cut the strips smaller as they shrink during cooking. Place each strip into the cleft end of the larding pin, twist it slightly, and press it firmly with your fingers.

Insert the pin through the meat or poultry (avoiding bones), and as you pull it out, the bacon strip will be left embedded in the meat. Arrange the strips in neat, evenly spaced rows, ensuring they are all of uniform size and sticking out about an inch from the surface. If any strips are misplaced, remove them and try again.

Typically, only the breast of fowl and birds is larded. Achieving a neat and attractive result requires practice and skill.