Cooking Veal / Beef the French Way (Recipes)

The culture of cooking veal and beef in French cuisine is deeply rooted in tradition, regional diversity, and a reverence for quality ingredients. The French approach to cooking these meats is not just about the act of cooking but reflects a broader philosophy about food, eating, and the connection to the land.

Terroir and Regional Diversity

The French culinary tradition is deeply influenced by terroir, a concept that refers to the unique characteristics of a region’s geography, climate, and soil that affect the quality of its food products. Different regions of France specialize in different styles of cooking veal and beef, reflecting local traditions and ingredients.

Burgundy is famous for Boeuf Bourguignon, a slow-cooked beef stew made with Burgundy wine. The wine plays a crucial role in enhancing the dish, showcasing the region’s famed vineyards.

Normandy emphasizes creamy sauces, like in Escalope de Veau à la Normande, where veal is paired with cream and apples.

Provence leans toward Mediterranean influences, using olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs like thyme and rosemary for cooking veal and beef dishes.

Respect for Ingredients

French cooking emphasizes the quality of ingredients, especially when it comes to meat. Veal and beef are seen as precious, and their preparation is approached with respect. French butchery traditions are highly refined, with butchers carefully selecting and aging the meats for optimal tenderness and flavor.

  • Veal is considered a delicacy in France, often associated with special occasions or Sundays. The meat is prized for its tenderness and mild flavor, especially when sourced from calves raised on farms that adhere to strict ethical and dietary standards.

  • Beef is a symbol of hearty, rustic French cuisine. Special care is taken in the selection of beef cuts, with certain breeds like Charolais or Limousin known for their superior quality. French chefs use the whole animal, and various cuts are celebrated for different preparations, from steak to stews.

The Importance of Sauces

Sauces are central to French cuisine, particularly when it comes to veal and beef dishes. French chefs are masters of sauce-making, using stocks, butter, cream, and reductions to complement the meat's natural flavors.

  • Béarnaise, bordelaise, and hollandaise are classic sauces served with beef dishes like Chateaubriand.

  • For veal, lighter sauces such as velouté or sauce au vin blanc (white wine sauce) are often used, providing richness without overpowering the delicate meat.

Veal

Veal in French Cuisine

Veal, or veau in French, is prized for its delicate, tender texture and subtle flavor. The meat comes from young cattle, usually under six months of age, making it leaner and more tender than beef. In French cuisine, veal is often cooked with gentle techniques that preserve its tenderness and showcase its mild taste. It is frequently paired with light sauces or reductions, allowing the natural flavor of the meat to shine.

Veal à la Mode

Rub a veal fillet generously with salt, then lard it. Prepare a seasoning mixture of chopped sweet herbs, shallots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Moisten this mixture with olive oil, then coat the veal thoroughly.

Place the veal in a tureen and let it marinate for several hours or overnight. When ready, remove it from the tureen, reapply the seasoning, and wrap the fillet in two sheets of well-buttered parchment paper. Roast or bake until fully cooked. Once done, unwrap the paper and scrape off the seasoning.

In a saucepan, combine the seasoning, gravy, juice from half a lemon, a butter-flour mixture, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, skimming off any impurities, then pour the sauce over the veal before serving.

Veal Cutlets

Prepare a seasoning by combining grated bread, minced ham, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and, if available, chopped mushrooms.

Mix in some egg yolk. Slice the veal into thin cutlets, rub them with lard, and coat both sides with the seasoning. Carefully wrap each cutlet in oiled or buttered parchment paper.

Bake slowly for about 45 minutes, then serve them in the paper.

Blanquette or Fricassee of Veal

Blanquette and fricassée are both classic French dishes that highlight the rich tradition of French cuisine.

Fricassée

Fricassée, on the other hand, is a method of cooking that involves browning meat (commonly chicken) before simmering it in a white sauce, often including vegetables and herbs. The term comes from the Old French "fricassee," which indicates a dish made from cut-up meat. Like blanquette, it typically has a creamy texture but may also include a more robust flavor profile with the addition of white wine and spices. This dish has medieval roots and evolved over time, becoming a staple in French kitchens.

Blanquette

Blanquette de veau is a creamy veal stew made with white meat, typically cooked slowly with vegetables like carrots, onions, and mushrooms. The dish is characterized by its pale color (hence the name "blanquette," which means "white" in French) and is finished with a velouté sauce enriched with cream and egg yolks. Its origins trace back to the 17th century, and it was popularized in the 19th century. Traditionally, it embodies the French culinary technique of braising and emphasizes the use of fresh ingredients.

Both dishes reflect the French culinary tradition of using simple, high-quality ingredients to create comforting and sophisticated meals.

Take the leftover cold roast fillet or loin of veal and cut it into thin slices. Place the pieces in a saucepan with a knob of butter rolled in flour, salt, pepper, minced small onions, chopped sweet herbs, and one or two bay or peach leaves.

Combine everything and add a splash of warm water. Allow it to simmer gently for five minutes or so. Once off the heat, stir in some lemon juice and a lightly beaten egg yolk.

Godiveau

Godiveau is a type of French sausage or meat dumpling made from finely ground veal and sometimes other meats, such as pork or chicken. This dish has deep historical roots in French culinary traditions, especially during the 18th and 19th centuries. Godiveau was a common feature in festive meals, served in soups or stews, and enjoyed for its delicate flavor and soft texture.

In older times, godiveau was often linked to Catholic religious festivities, particularly around Easter, as it was considered a fine, celebratory dish. The use of veal, a high-quality meat, and the labor-intensive preparation made it a dish for special occasions. Today, while it may not be as widely known or prepared as some other French dishes, it remains a traditional favorite in certain regions of France.

Take a large piece of veal fillet, ensuring it is free of fat and skin. Mince the meat finely, then pound it in a mortar until it forms a smooth paste. Pass it through a colander or sieve.

Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, then also rub the bread through a sieve. The quantity of bread should equal that of the veal. Use the same amount of butter, and mix it in the mortar with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley to taste.

Combine all the ingredients. Beat two or three eggs until light, then gradually add them to the mixture. Shape the mixture into round balls or long rolls and fry them in butter. Alternatively, you can place it in a pie dish (without a lid) and bake it.

This mixture, known as Godiveau, makes an excellent stuffing for poultry or game.

Grillades

Classic

Slice from a fillet of veal, fresh beef, leg of mutton, or leg of pork, ensuring they are no thicker than half an inch.

Place the slices in a stewpan with a suitable amount of oil, salt, pepper, and finely chopped parsley and onion. Simmer in a small amount of water until they are halfway cooked. Meanwhile, prepare sheets of white paper greased with oil or butter.

Remove the meat slices, which should be coated with the seasoning, and sprinkle grated breadcrumbs over them. Wrap each slice in the paper and broil over a low fire. Serve them directly in the paper.

Grillades is a traditional French dish, often associated with New Orleans' Creole cuisine. It's typically made using slow-cooked medallions of beef, veal, or pork, served with a rich tomato-based gravy and commonly paired with grits. Here’s a recipe for French Grillades, which blends French techniques with Southern flavors.

Calves’ Liver

The preparation of veal liver in French cuisine has deep historical roots, reflecting the nation's rich culinary traditions. French chefs have long prized liver for its delicate flavor and versatility. Veal liver, in particular, became a staple due to its tender texture and milder taste compared to other types of liver, like beef or pork.

Liver consumption in France goes back to at least the Middle Ages, when offal, including liver, was highly valued for being nutrient-dense and economical. In the 17th and 18th centuries, French cuisine began to be codified, and liver dishes became a part of the menus of aristocratic households. During this time, French chefs refined techniques for cooking organ meats, including sautéing, braising, and poaching.

Classic Preparation Methods

Veal liver was traditionally prepared simply to highlight its flavor. One of the most famous preparations is "Foie de Veau à la Lyonnaise" (Lyon-style veal liver). This dish consists of liver sautéed in butter and is typically served with caramelized onions, parsley, and a sauce made from pan drippings and vinegar or wine. The dish hails from Lyon, a city known for its gastronomic traditions, particularly its "Bouchon" restaurants, which emphasize rustic, hearty cooking.

Modern French Approaches

In contemporary French cuisine, veal liver is often treated with the same respect as a fine steak. Chefs emphasize quick searing or sautéing to preserve its tender texture. Ingredients like shallots, capers, herbs, and white wine are frequently used to enhance its flavor. Modern French bistros often feature veal liver as a dish that evokes both comfort and sophistication.

Veal Liver in 19th-Century Haute Cuisine

By the 19th century, veal liver had become more common in haute cuisine, as chefs like Marie-Antoine Carême and later Georges Auguste Escoffier elevated French culinary techniques. Veal liver was often paired with rich sauces, such as sauce madère (a Madeira wine-based sauce) or sauce bordelaise (a red wine and shallot-based sauce). Escoffier, in particular, helped popularize liver in fine dining settings, emphasizing the importance of careful seasoning and cooking to avoid overcooking the delicate meat.

Calves’ Liver Baked

Coat the liver with bacon and let it marinate for three to four hours in a covered dish, seasoned with finely chopped parsley, shallots, bay leaves, thyme, a pinch of pepper, salt, and two tablespoons of olive oil.

Turn the liver occasionally. Once marinated, wrap it in thin slices of bacon or cold ham and bake or roast it for about an hour and a quarter. To the gravy, stir in an egg yolk, minced onions, and chopped fresh herbs.

Calves’ Liver Fried

Slice the liver thinly and place it in a frying pan with a pat of butter dusted with flour, along with some minced onions, a splash of white wine, salt, pepper, and a pinch of mace. Cook for about ten minutes until browned.

The French approach to veal liver—balancing simplicity with flavor—has influenced how this dish is prepared in kitchens worldwide. Its enduring popularity in France speaks to the country’s broader reverence for ingredients that honor tradition while allowing room for culinary creativity.

Veal Kidneys

French Classic

Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first soaked them in cold water, rub them with a little salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with flour and a little parsley and onions minced finely. Fry them in butter, adding a glass of champagne or other white wine.

Mutton kidneys may be done in the same manner.

Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them in half, season them with salt and pepper, lard them, and broil them

Veal Sweetbreads

Take three sweetbreads and soak them in milk for three to four hours. Once softened, pat them dry and lard them. Prepare a seasoning by finely chopping some sweet herbs, mushrooms, and a quarter pound of cold ham or bacon. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste, along with a tablespoon of sweet oil. Mix everything thoroughly.

In a stewpan, add the sweetbreads, along with the seasoning, a small piece of butter coated in flour, a little water or broth, and an equal amount of wine. Let it stew gently for about ten minutes.

After stewing, remove the sweetbreads and place them in a deep dish. Pour the seasoning mixture over them and allow it to cool. Meanwhile, prepare some white paper cases, oil them, and line the insides with grated bread. Place a sweetbread into each paper case, adding some seasoning to both the top and bottom. Seal the cases and bake them in an oven until the sweetbreads turn golden.

For serving, heat the gravy until it simmers, then remove from the fire and gently stir in a lightly beaten egg yolk. Let it sit covered for a few minutes, then serve the gravy in a sauce boat alongside the baked sweetbreads in their paper cases.

Beef

Beef in French Cuisine

Beef, or boeuf in French, is an essential part of French culinary history, with many classic dishes built around it. French cuisine values high-quality cuts of beef, often sourced from specific breeds like the Charolais (known for its tenderness and flavor) or Limousin. The cooking of beef in French cuisine ranges from elegant steak preparations to hearty stews that celebrate the slow-cooked richness of tougher cuts.

Sirloin of Beef

French Classic

Generously rub salt all over the beef, and insert strips of fatty bacon into the lean sections. Cover the meat with oiled or buttered paper. Roast it for three to four hours, depending on its size.

Serve with the gravy and a side of onion sauce.

Stewed Beef

French Classic

Take some slices of cold, slightly undercooked roast beef and place them in a stewpan with a bit of gravy or broth. If neither is available, warm water will suffice.

Add a knob of butter coated in flour, along with chopped capers or pickled cucumbers, a splash of lemon juice or vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Allow the beef to simmer gently without boiling. Meanwhile, prepare slices of bread to match the size of the beef slices and fry them in butter.

To serve, spread tomato sauce on the bottom of a dish, then arrange the beef slices and fried bread in alternating layers. Pour the gravy over the top and serve immediately. You can use this method with other types of meat as well.

French beef stew, particularly the famous "Boeuf Bourguignon," is a dish with deep roots in French culinary history. This slow-cooked stew, traditionally made with beef, red wine, and vegetables, reflects the country's agricultural traditions and its rich culinary heritage.

History of French Beef Stew (Boeuf Bourguignon)

Boeuf Bourguignon originates from the Burgundy region of France, known for its wines and cattle farming. The dish likely started as peasant food, where tougher cuts of beef were slow-cooked in local red wine to tenderize the meat and enhance its flavor. Over time, the dish became more refined, moving from rustic kitchens to the tables of French nobility and restaurants.

By the 19th century, the stew had become popular in French homes and was elevated in the kitchens of chefs like Auguste Escoffier, who codified many French recipes. Boeuf Bourguignon is one of the most well-known examples of slow-braising in French cuisine, a technique that softens the meat and develops rich flavors over time. Today, it remains a classic in French cuisine, celebrated for its depth of flavor and hearty qualities.

Beef Steaks

Classic

Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them neatly, and take off the bone and the skin. To make them tender, beat them on both sides with a wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling pin. Rub them with salt and pepper. Warm a sufficient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread it over the steaks.

Then sprinkle them with onions minced very finely. Cover them up in a dish, and let them lie an hour or more in the seasoning. Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some cold-boiled potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay them around the steaks.

 Beef à la Mode

Classic

Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to make it tender. Rub it all over with salt and pepper. Lard it on both sides with slips of bacon. Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a calves-foot, a few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, one or two laurel leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg.

Pour in a half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white wine, and a spoonful of brandy. Let it stew slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out; strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve it up.

A fillet of veal may be done in the same manner.

Boeuf à la Mode is a traditional French pot roast that dates back to the 18th century, often referred to as the French version of a beef pot roast. It’s a slow-cooked, flavorful dish made with beef, red wine, and aromatic vegetables. The term "à la mode" refers to a dish that’s dressed up or prepared in a particular style, often associated with marinating and slow braising.

Wine Pairing and Complements

Wine is an inseparable part of French meals, especially when it comes to beef and veal. Each dish is carefully paired with a wine that enhances the flavors of the meat.

  • Boeuf Bourguignon is traditionally paired with a red Burgundy, while veal dishes like Blanquette de Veau are often paired with a white Burgundy or a crisp Chardonnay.

  • The French also complement their meat dishes with seasonal vegetables, mushrooms, and light side dishes like potato gratins or green beans.

In sum, French veal and beef cooking is an art form that merges tradition, regionality, technique, and respect for ingredients. It reflects the broader French cultural ethos of savoring life, with food and meals playing a central role in connecting people to their history, land, and one another.

Larding

Larding with strips of fat bacon enhances both the taste and appearance of meat, poultry, and game, and is a staple in French cooking. To do this, you'll need a larding pin, a steel tool about a foot long with a sharp end and a cleft end divided into four sections, resembling tweezers. These can be found at hardware stores.

For larding, use fat bacon, cutting it into strips no longer than two inches, half an inch wide, and half an inch thick. For poultry, cut the strips smaller as they shrink during cooking. Place each strip into the cleft end of the larding pin, twist it slightly, and press it firmly with your fingers.

Insert the pin through the meat or poultry (avoiding bones), and as you pull it out, the bacon strip will be left embedded in the meat. Arrange the strips in neat, evenly spaced rows, ensuring they are all of uniform size and sticking out about an inch from the surface. If any strips are misplaced, remove them and try again.

Typically, only the breast of fowl and birds is larded. Achieving a neat and attractive result requires practice and skill.